Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Rothenberg & Rhinefalls

City by night, old walls of the city, cool pics I like, schneeballs, entrance to the city

Rothenberg is a medieval city that in the middle ages was Germany's second-largest city with a whopping population of 6,000. There are a lot of buildings dating back to the 1300's (at least in some form) and one family that was mentioned whose descendants built the house back in the 1500's. We walked along the old walls and looked at the names along the walls. After WWII Rothenberg was out of funds to keep up its historic sites. They petitioned for donors and whoever donated got their name inscribed on the wall. Schneeballs are a local favorite and compare to the American doughnut. They're so yummy when filled with chocolate and dipped in hot chocolate. We bought a few Christmas ornaments (they are known for their Weinachts Markt or Christmas Market) from an old lady who owns a tourist shop. She was so sweet and gave us a map of the city which she had hand-drawn. It was beautiful. That's why we went back and bought more than just postcards. We had a great time.


The Princess of Rothenberg

The Night Watchman
I DEFINITELY recommend this tour to anyone going here. It's a must. The tour guide, rather, Rothenberg's last surviving Night Watchman, speaks with a dramatic accent and tells all about the history of the city in a very comical way.
The city gate with the MANHOLE. Which is exactly what Tally is... (Price fam - remember that game of Catch Phrase we played when Tally and I were married? The word I got was manhole. You guessed HOLE and that the first part of the word had three letters. I said, "what Tally is..." Then I realized the other three letters that could come before that word. Opps. I laughed so hard I almost peed my pants. I can't imagine what you guys were thinking...) Anyway, if someone wanted to come into the city past curfew, they had to go through the manhole because it was too dangerous to open the entire gate for a straggler. If you were late, you also had to pay a fine.

Haus Karin

Karin is the lady talking to Kelsey. She is a resident of Rothenberg who runs a B&B out of her home. She was so fun to hang out with at breakfast - such a character. The guys across the table from us were from South Carolina. Our friends Mike & Anna stayed here and recommended the place. We couldn't help but think of you guys when we were here!
After breakfast, we were on the road back home.


On the way home on Tuesday, we made a quick stop at Rhinefalls. It's one of the biggest waterfalls in Europe.


Monday, September 29, 2008

Karlovy Vary

(not my picture, I wish)

On Sunday, a few hours after leaving Prague, we found ourselves in Karlovy Vary. It's times like this when I feel like I'm in a dream. I have to give a little background for this one.

A few years ago, I went back to California to visit my family. One night we went to the movies and saw something I wasn't thrilled about going to: James Bond Casino Royale. While watching the movie, I fell in love with "Montenegro." I was almost in tears as a desire to someday see this country fell over me. It also stoked the desire to want to move to Switzerland, even though the job opening had not yet materialized. My mom and I even talked about one day visiting Montenegro.

Well, I was silly. What was said to be Montenegro (a newly formed country above Albania) was actually Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic...and here I was, two years later, driving the streets like James Bond (okay, minus the Aston). Tally is amazing and got us a room in the Grand Hotel Pupp, not knowing at the time that this was the hotel where the movie was filmed (and so was "The Holiday" with Queen Latifah). It was everything I had hoped it would be and instead of Bond, I had Price...Talmadge Price.
A few shots inside. Where Tally is standing is where you check in. We watched Casino Royale on Sunday night and this is the same place James & Vesper check in. Those curtains are by the elevator where she gets in and says. "take the next one."

I have never seen a hotel room like this in all of Europe. This was only part of it.
After checking out the hotel, we went for a walk into town to see what we could see.

Window Shopping
Kelsey whined and pointed as we passed this window and we couldn't figure out why. We took her to the window and then spotted the little pampered dog. She knows how to spot 'em!
Dinner at a little Italian place - we were STARVING and the food was delicious. Kelsey loved Opa's pasta. They had live music and if you look closely, the people in the booth behind us are totally clapping and moving their arms around. They were familiar songs to everyone BUT us. We had fun clapping along and Kelsey even did a few dance moves for us.


The next morning, we met up with Ted, Libby, Mallory & Jean Hinckley and Libby's aunt Lola. Karlovy Vary or Karlsbad is a spa city known for their hot springs. Karl Marx, Beethoven, Johann Wolfgang Goethe, and others used to holiday here because the water was said to have healing properties. We bought the infamous mug and drank from the "healing waters." It was NASTY. At several fountains it will tell you the temperature of the water and some were almost too hot to touch. It was a very beautiful place that I would love to re-visit someday.


A sip of healing water
The Gyser
On our way to Rothenberg...

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Prague

We arrived in Prague on Friday afternoon. As we drove in, we were blown away by how big and beautiful it was. It was culturally rich and we immediately fell in love with it. We met up with our friends, the Hinckleys, and Ted took us for a walk.

Here are a few things we saw along the way.

Perspective. The beggars in Prague beg on their knees like this
The buildings that line Wencesles Square
Kelsey and Tally in the Old Town square
The Prague Orloj or astronomical clock tower and The Church of Our Lady. I find it interesting that they built shops around the front of the church in later years. As for the clock, we stayed until the hour and watched the 12 apostles circle through the windows. The clock also features figures outside representing some of the seven deadly sins.

The view from our hotel window at sunset
Wenceslas Square and the National Museum
Our hotel was on the left of side of this street (further down, not pictured)
The next morning, we headed out to see more sites.
The underground subway in Prague
Palace gardens, art & architecture


Changing of the Guards


Where's Kelsey? I got separated from the group while taking pictures so just like the tour guides do, Tally held up something in the air for me to see. Can you find them?
Price family near the gate of the Prague castle/palace

Kelsey and the view of Prague
Kelsey instigates a fan club wherever she goes. She likes the attention but not when they get inbetween her and mommy
Funny story here. We walked out after seeing the changing of the guards and turned to say hi to the guy on post here. He looked really pale and suddenly, he fell backwards in his booth! He passed out I guess from locking his knees. His buddy couldn't leave his post to help him either! The guy got up and said something to the other guy and LEFT HIS POST! So, Tally and Kelsey took care of business protecting the Royal Family of Prague.
We walked from the castle/palace across Charles Bridge and down to the next bridge. There were a ton of stairs, I should have counted, but wow, what a view.
I loved the ivy on this building - the leaves are changing!

Charles Bridge
I could not believe how crowded it was on this bridge. It was hard to get any goods shots. I would have loved to have seen it deserted and taken some pictures then. I saw it on a postcard with a bit of snowfall and it looked unbelievable.

Family picture on the Charles Bridge (Kels was snoozin)
The Vlatava River from Charles Bridge
The enormous crowd combined with construction

Prague Castle, Charles Bridge, and the Vlatava River behind us
One way to bring customers in...or keep them out
A well-dressed sidewalk with cafes and quaint shops

Saturday night, we were walking around looking for a place to eat. This guy brought us down a back alley to the restaurant that used to be a brothel. He's not military - it's just to reel in the tourists. And we bit! We had goulash that was pretty good. When I was ordering, I asked for mashed potatoes and I mentioned they were for the baby. The waiter said they would not be good for the baby so I asked for bread - also not good for the baby. Okay...so I ordered them both anyway and she ate them just fine. At least he wasn't trying to oversell me, right? Until the end when they "accidentally" doubled our bill. Since everything was in Koruna (which was 18.65 to the dollar), some things were hard to tell but this was outrageous. We straightened them out though.
There was a noose as you walked in - just in case you try to dine and ditch. I guess Tal didn't leave a good enough tip after the whole accidental charge (haha).
The next morning was regional conference in Prague which meant church would be held at a rented facility. In the states and other places in the world, this might mean a boring old carpet and white walls meeting hall. In Prague, it means a grandiose old building with chandeliers dotting the halls and hand-carved molding. Of course, every building is like this in Prague, right? Centuries old?
After church, we got a ride from a new member who was very sweet but didn't speak a lick of English. He was from Ukraine, that much we learned. The hotel brought us our car that had been valeted and stored in an off-site garage. Of course, Tally immediately noticed it's new paint job, or lack thereof. We questioned the hotel clerk and even drove to the off-site garage. The guy at the garage had a huge poster of porn above his work station and didn't even want to look at the scratch saying it must have already been there because it couldn't happen in their garage. SO, it's no surprise we still haven't heard back on the subject. It's a good thing the car already had a few dings and scratches otherwise it would have been a bigger issue.
We saw this modern piece as we came into the city so we had to take a picture on our way out.
Built during 1992-96 by Frank Gehry and Vladimir Mulunic, the Dancing Building is a piece of controversial Prague architecture that the locals still aren't sure about. However, the delightful design of the building, nicknamed "Fred and Ginger" for the way the building mimics the forms of a dancing couple, houses one of Prague's most expensive restaurants, "La Perle de Prague."
Off to Karlovy Vary!

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Munich, Dachau & Oktoberfest

On Wednesday, we stayed home to pack and get ready for our big trip to Prague.
Thursday we left mid morning to pick up Tally from work and drive our first leg of the trip to Munich. Once we got close, we stopped in Dachau, Germany - the first concentration camp in Germany during WWII. This was my second time to Dachau, and it didn't impact me nearly as much as the first time. I believe there are two reasons for this. On my trip in 2001, I walked the grounds of Dachau with my friend Lauren Finkelstein who's grandfather had survived Dachau. The images, her tears, the sheer horror of it all made the day very somber. The second reason is because we saw Breendonk earlier this year which was not destroyed by soldiers and looks a lot like it would have back in the 1940's.

So, this time was different. We arrived less than an hour before closing so we didn't get to do the audio tour. We did get to walk the grounds and see the museum section. It began to rain, which seemed to be the right effect for the dreary site before us. We walked through the buildings that contained the gas room "showers," the room where they would hang the prisoners and then burn their bodies, and the old barracks. I can't imagine what it would be like to be treated as a number, or a lowly animal. On the entrance gate, it says "Arbeit Macht Frei" meaning "Work makes freedom." The tour guides explain that the sign was intended as a cruel insult to the prisoners who had to work with no hope of freedom because the official Nazi policy was "extermination through work" (see pic on bottom right).

This is a view of the whole entrance, notice the old gate
Picture taken when camp was liberated in 1945 (by the US ;) Courtesy of this site

September 2008



This is an International Monument designed by Nandor Glid
It represents the body distortion caused when a person was electrocuted by the electric fence.
This is one of the watch towers and the wall that kept the prisoners contained.
Here's a view from another angle taken back in 1945

Rows of poplar trees that fell in line with the barracks. They were originally flower beds until the prisoners planted the trees in 1938.
A picture showing what the old barracks looked like compared to the rows of gravel that is left.


As was the case in other concentration camps, the SS was very strict about the way things were to be kept clean and orderly.

"No mark or spot, however small, dared be made in the wood for if it were seen by the Blockfuehrer (barrack leader) a penalty was immediately forthcoming...Crockery too must be spotlessly clean, a single coffee stain overlooked would warrant an hour hanging at the stake. Kupfer-Koberwitz "The Mighty and the Helpless"

The green barrack buildings could be distinguished through the barbed wire. Even at a distance you could see that all was meticulously clean; the merest fragment of litter was absent. An air of foreboding permeated the place - frightful, cold as death. Never before have I experienced an atmosphere so uncompromisingly dangerous or so fiendishly hostile.
Kupfer-Koberwitz "The Mighty and the Helpless"

The Infirmary

The infirmary was continually extended in the course of the war. Located in barracks A and B were the administration office, the operating rooms, casualty ward, and the death chamber. From 1942, the SS conducted cruel medical experiements on the prisoners in the blocks 1, 3, and 5. These included malaria, phlegmon, altitude, and hypothermia experiements. Despite the infirmary wards being technically well-equipped, the medical care of the prisoners was catastrophic. There was an appalling lack of medicines and dressing material. those prisoners who themselves were doctors were premitted in 1943 to take care of their ill companions. For all those prisoners who could not be brought back to health quickly, the infirmary was a place of death.

Here are the words from a sign that stands outside the museum:

"May the example of those who were exterminated here between 1933-1945 because the resisted Nazism help to unite the living for the defense of peace and freedom and in respect for their fellow men."

This piece of art represents the different colored patches that prisoners were given,
the chain of imprisonment that unites them all.

Never Again
This is the grave of all the unknown victims whose ashes became mixed

After getting depressed at Dachau, we decided to drink away our worries at Oktoberfest. Gotcha. Since we were in Munich during Oktoberfest we had to check it out. It was rather disappointing actually. We must have been the only family with a baby stroller and we were not allowed in any Biergarten (the only place you could sit down and eat) with a baby - even after I promised not to give the baby beer. So we walked around and checked out all the drunk people.
Sharing a super long bratwurst
It was akin to an oversized carnival but with lederhosen...and more beer
I had no idea how many people would be dressed in the traditional kleid & lederhosen. We stuck out because we WEREN'T in uniform. Contrary to popular belief, you cannot purchase lederhosen at Oktoberfest because it's traditional (and we don't want dumb tourists like you wearing it, making fun of it, and making us look stupid). I was also surprised at how many people didn't want me to take their picture. I mean, doesn't everyone love pictures of themselves getting totally wasted at Oktoberfest? I've never had so many NEINs and questions about what I was doing with the photos. I told people they were for my foto buch. I left out the part about my foto buch being online. My guess is people wake up the next morning to a phone call from their mom or wife asking why this picture of them is on the newspaper and weren't they supposed to be at work?

Needless to say, we got out of there quickly. I think we were all tired and a bit turned off by the whole event. I don't think it made Brent & Lee's "favorite sites in Europe" list.



We did get off the train to check out Marienplatz by night. It looks like a cool city.


The next morning (Friday) we went to the English Gardens. Tally, Brent & me left Kels & Lee in the car while we strolled along the river into the park. Tally & Brent pointed out some of the vegetation they knew (the signs were in German) and we made it from one end of the park and back.

Brent became our family photographer on this trip and was so patient with me as I fixed settings and asked her to take several pictures. It was wonderful not to have to bring the tripod everywhere!

Walking towards the light
Tally really enjoyed being able to spend time with his mom